ST. GEORGE — One of Zion National Park’s signs of spring is the return of the monogamous peregrine falcons. Park officials confirm that these fast, high-flying birds frequently return to the same territory yearly. 

“If they are forced off their nests, they may not return, and that’s why it’s so important that we do not disturb them at this critical time of year,” Janice Stroud-Settles, lead wildlife biologist at Zion National Park, said in an email to St. George News. “Peregrine falcons are monogamous and they mate for life.”

The falcon’s ritual means that some climbing cliffs in the park are closed from March until early fall. Like Angels Landing, towering crags are nesting sites for peregrines to raise their young. Stroud-Settles said peregrine falcons prefer to nest in the crevices on cliff faces as high as 1,300 feet from the canyon floor.

Once the nesting locations are determined for this year, the cliffs that were closed but are not used for nest sites will be reopened, typically by late April or early May. 

Stroud-Settles said the cliffs used as nest sites will be watched until the young birds leave. After that, they will be reopened to climbing, usually in July or August.

Park wildlife biologists and volunteers will monitor the breeding season. A local climbing group, Zion Climbing Coalition, volunteers and educates others about where to climb to help the wildlife.  

“We are assisting the Zion National Park wildlife crew in coordinating volunteers to aid the technicians in having more eyes to be able to more effectively open and close the cliffs,” Steffan Gregory, the executive director of the Zion Climbing Coalition, told St. George News. “It’s not that they will particularly always yield more open cliffs or more closed cliffs. It just makes a more efficient process.”

Gregory said that, for some years, the cliffs open sooner than late August, but it varies yearly. He said it’s always been a great partnership between the climbers and the park.

He said the group is under the Southern Utah Climbing Alliance, a nonprofit.

“This is also open to anyone who is willing to volunteer and help — beyond climbers — anyone who is fans of birds, fans of wildlife, students, biologists,” Gregory said. 

When people see a bird, they need to manually track it with their eyes. Gregory said it’s harder to locate the information they need if they lose sight of it.

“When there’s more eyes out there, they usually have a higher success rate. You get to hang out with the biologists or technicians for the day. They can provide you some great interpretive information,” Gregory said.

Thes climbing areas  are currently closed until further notice:

• Angels Landing climbing routes — Peregrine Falcon closure only — hiking route remains open.
• East Temple.
• Mount Spry.
• The Streaked Wall.
• The Sentinel.
• Mountain of the Sun.
• North Twin Brother.
• Cable Mountain.
• The Great White Throne.
• Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs).
• Tunnel Wall.
• Mount Kinesava.

Peregrine falcons can reach speeds up to 200 miles per hour. Falcons can power-dive from great heights to strike prey, usually other birds. According to the Audubon Society website, the bird was seriously endangered at one time due to the effects of pesticides such as DDT.

The Zion National Park website states, “The word peregrine originates from the Latin, peregrines, meaning “to travel abroad” or “wander.” The peregrine falcon is known to travel up to 15,000 miles in one migratory year. This bird is found on every continent except Antarctica.

Stroud-Settles said biologists monitor peregrine falcons’ breeding success per a U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service mandate. Zion National Park has been monitoring the birds for over 25 years. It is one of the most comprehensive records for the Western United States. She stated that the park usually discovers eight-10 nesting pairs each year.

Permits are required ahead of time for technical rock climbing trails and for those planning on overnight camping. According to the park’s website, online applications must be submitted two months before a scheduled trip. Also, applications are limited to one request per individual, canyon and month and permits are not for day climbs.

The park service will update its seasonal climbing closures webpage as areas reopen for access. To obtain permits, visit the day before you plan to climb or the day of at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center. Learn more about bivy climbing permits here.

Camping at the base of the wall or in your vehicle inside the park is illegal unless you are in an established campground with a campground reservation.

Download the 2024 Climbing Guide to Seasonal Raptor Closures. This guide, used with the status update, helps to increase climbers’ understanding of what cliffs are closed to climbing during nesting season.

To sign up to help the Zion Climbing Coalition or volunteer, click here.

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